LarryHoward wrote:I have a portable hydraulic crimper for those big wires at work. If you have the desire, I could probably make it available. Be easier if you weren't so far away and locked down.
Thanks Larry, I may take you up on that if it won't get you in trouble. I bought a hammer crimp which I've seen people get mixed results on. I plan to do a couple test crimps and cut them to see how they turn out and get the feel. If they're sh*t, then I'll reach out to you for the proper tool.
Beau, yes starter motor and distribution block for accessories. Some nitrous solenoids pull 30-40 amps to make sure they function at 1,000 psi. I'll be running an additional fuel pump, elec. fan, water pump, and other accessories. The battery (1 or 2) will be in the trunk to a kill switch. For cranking I could've probably saved a bit and went with a 1/0 cable, but even with mild 10.6 compression it's still turning over a 10.3 liter engine. This way, if I ever wanted to swap pistons and go race only, the cable won't need to be upgraded. I don't like voltage drop.
Why so much cable? Clean bus for sensitive electronics, ECU or progressive controller, and the dirty bus for everything else that doesn't wig out from a voltage spike. Tests have shown that turning off the electromagnet on a solenoid can cause a huge voltage spike (almost 400 volts). Diodes are another option but they're difficult to implement in an engine bay.