Scantlings

Finally getting around to building out my '05 Rubi to what I had envisioned when I bought it. I'm installing a 2.5" Old Man Emu lift. This, plus new 33" tires, will give me about 4" of lift.

One of the first steps is installing a rear trackbar relocation bracket. Not a lot of room in there to drill down. I considered buying a heavy duty right-angle drill, but I'm cheap.

So I bought a right angle adapter for about $15 from Home Depot. I was skeptical.



I started with trying to drill a pilot, but that smaller bit broke. So I went straight to the 7/16" drill recommended by OME.



Took about 15 minutes using a CADB (Cheap-Ass Drill Bit) going slow and plenty of oil.

I picked up that same one at a garage sale for $5. It's a bit of a pain to use but I need it so seldom it's a good workaround - better than the $$$$$$$ for the real thing.

I have to say that, like you, I was skeptical but for $5?? It works better than I anticipated.

I was afraid I woulnd't be able to get enough pressure on it to cut. Took a while and my knees are killing me but it worked and I didn't distroy the bit.

I didn’t get the tie in to boating till I saw the safety deck shoes. Nice build out Rick. I went the other way on my old FJ40. Lowered it so I could get the hitch closer to the planets surface and my boat.

Nice catch Cap!

Rick-I like your no matter what it takes attitude.

A lifelong jeep type, had a few off roaders over the years. These days I drive the ultimate grandma jeep, a two wheel drive Cherokee, though my previous Cherokees were 4X. All my sons and one daughter have jacked up jeeps and Toyotas, do they handle off road and going to awesome places, indeed they do. Driving them isn't so bad, but the passenger better be prepared for the gyrations of the elevated ride. I usually point out to them before we embark off road, I can get out and hike the distance in far more comfort, and probably as efficiently, if not more so.

Thanks Boomer

up until the '07 model, Jeeps were just one step above a tractor.

and that's okay with me. I like when my wife drives. It makes her boobs bounce.

Well, in my typical fashion I get to do the front suspension a second time. There are spacers that go above the springs. I put them between the springs and the factory isolators.

They have to go the other way around.

Which means I need to use the spring compressor again. I hate those things. At least the design of the ones I'm using are captive. They won't slip like those bird-claw type.

I really like working on cars. Actually like working on most things that involve tools.

A few years ago I bought a lift. I hatehatehatehate jackstands. I found a very unique lift called EZ Carlift. It's mechanical, not hydraulic and works like four floor jacks (more like scissor jacks).

On the jeep, I need to use blocks on the platforms of the lift as the transfer case prevents the frame from being lifted flush on the platforms. I built up some blocks on the platforms right in the middle of the platform. Not really thinking. My last structural engineering class was in 1990 and after that I was almost certain I'd never need to retain any of it.

I started cranking on the lift and having all that weight in the middle of the span, the platforms on both sides snapped. The car wasn't even off the ground yet so it wasn't all that dramatic. But I difinitely learned my lesson.



Conctacted the manufacturer, let them know what happened, and they sent out two new platforms at no charge. FANTASTIC customer service. I accept most of the blame, but I suggested they mark on the platform that no blocking should be placed in the middle of the span.





It really is the best tool I own. It will lift the car almost 30" of the floor and it's rock solid. You have fantastic access to the entire underside of the car. Much better than those easy-lift portable hydraulic things. Of course, not as nice as a full blown lift you see in a garage, but I'll need to sell 5 or 6 GL 40s before I can afford one of those

Do those lifts lock, or can they collapse?
I must admit I would put a few jackstands under the car as well.
I have seen a few cases where a car dropped on a home mechanic. Not nice.

Olaf Hart wrote:Do those lifts lock, or can they collapse?
I must admit I would put a few jackstands under the car as well.
I have seen a few cases where a car dropped on a home mechanic. Not nice.

It would take a great deal for these things to collapse. The lifts are all connected via a substantial acme threaded shaft. Even in the case where the platform snapped, the car would not have fallen any further than a few inches. Jackstands are unneccesary. I HATE jackstands.

These things were designed the way they were specifically because cars dropped on home mecahnics (most likely because the car was on jack stands).

She's all back together now. I ordered some new tires and those came today.

I still have a little bit of 'Death Wobble' (without so much Death part). This can be caused by any one or combination of things and I'm going to start systematically replacing parts until I resolve it. For now, it's not so bad that I can't drive it.

With tires that size on that short a wheelbase you are going to get wobble. The only way I know of to control it is to put a BIG shock absorber on the steering cross link. I've seen as many as two or three on some of the more absurd jacked up 'Burbans and suchlike. Without a shock in the system you will forever be chasing sloppy ball joints and so forth - the torque and vibration will wear them out as fast as you can replace them.

You know how much one of those monster wheel & tire combos weigh - imagine the gyro effect at a few hundred RPM.

nope. I've done several of these builds. Wheelbase has nothing to do with wobble. The wobble was much more pronounced with the stock tires (which leads me to believe the crappy General tires the PO put on were way out of balance). True, with larger tires you should install a larger steering dampener (which I have - stock dampener is on the right).



In fact, the wheelbase on this Jeep is longer than a Jeep Grand Cherokee. This is a 2005 Unlimited. Typical cause of wobble is either trashed tie rod end ball joints (which are replaceable) or the ball joint on the pass. end of the tie rod or the one at the pittman arm (neither of which is serviceable). If it's wheeled a lot (mine isn't), it could be worn bushings in the upper and/or lower control arms or the track bar mounting holes getting elongated. Plus, on lifts over about 3", the camber can be off which would then require adjustable lower control arms. My lift is 2 1/2" which is only 1 1/2" over the factory lift that came with the Rubicon. All the components are heavy duty and made for more serious off-roading than the stock stuff (google Old Man Emu and ARB) - designed for use in the Australian Outback

Less likely it could be the ball joints on the steering knuckles or possibly worn wheel bearings. Neither of those are an issue on my jeep.